I am still reeling off last week’s swell fiesta.
The much anticipated swell was supposed to hit the biggest on Monday of last week, so I opted to head West, paddling out at dawn to an undisclosed 10 to 15 foot spot for most of the day. The ocean was amazing and was shared with only 3 other friends in the water for 2 hours before anyone caught on to the secret. We had each come alone, eager to try our luck at this particular spot; yet happy to see a familiar face as we arrived in the dark of the early morning hours. Two real estate gurus, a fireman, and myself paddled out into what would be one of my favorite surf sessions of the season thus far. As the swells marched in, growing like mountains from the horizon, I could’nt help but be filled with gratitude. The first hour in the line up must have had 30 different turtles of all shapes and sizes come and welcome us into their happy home. The ocean was exceptionally warm and the sky was an electric blue that filled you with energy.
As we sat between sets, a helicopter circled above us with a man and his video camera hanging over the side and filming our every move. As the morning went on, we began to use their movements as indications of what was to come out of the depths that was visable from their vantage point. When they moved closer to the take off zone and focused their camera, we knew something had to be coming and began to paddle for the horizon.
We traded waves for most of the morning and even as I write this today, a week later, I’m still smiling.
At the same time, just around the point, the north shore was housing some of the biggest waves in the world. Only time would reveal that monday was just the beginning…